A few weeks ago I mentioned that the family took surfing lessons as I gathered shells one last amber warm day. Another observer on the beach of the Delaware National Seashore was a goth/emo boy cradling a giant camera as he sat watching. His fingernails were painted black and as I approached, he self conciously tunneled his feet into the sand. I gave him what I hoped was a kindly smile and queried; "Your toenails, too?". He looked first at the horizon and then at a young woman in a wetsuit. "She did them.", he said. "Ah.", I answered. "Nice." We both shrugged and shifted our focus away from our surfers to some young Menonite women daintily holding their long skirts up as they wet their feet in the waves and minded some toddlers building castles. The men in the group were fishing in the advancing tide. Our surf instructor asked me to keep time and emo boy revealed a smile as my younger daughter managed to stand up on her board. I can still smell the ocean if I think about it for a long time.